Iraq's ambitious tourism plans: Impossible dream come true?

The central Baghdad square where Iraqi Prime Minister Mohammed Shia al-Sudani is about to give a speech on tourism is surrounded by exactly the kinds of historic buildings tourists will want to see when they visit: Two centuries-old mosques, one of the Arab world's oldest universities, an 800-year-old castle, the oldest church in the city, and the former seat of Baghdad's government during the days of the Ottoman Empire.

But the area around Saray Square also bears the scars of Iraq's more recent history, which has kept tourists away for years. Just down the road from the square is Muttannabi Street. In 2007, a car bomb killed 30 people there and destroyed much of the thoroughfare famous for its booksellers. In 2019, nearby Rasheed Street became a dangerous frontline where demonstrators and security forces battled during anti-government protests.

Iraq is known as the 'cradle of civilization' and boasts over 12,000 archeological sites, though many of are untendedImage: Duan Minfu/Xinhua/picture alliance

But things have changed a lot in the last five years, with Iraq experiencing a long period of comparative calm and security. That's why on this evening in late February, Iraqi officials are celebrating the start of Baghdad's year as the Arab Capital of Tourism 2025, a title bestowed annually by the Arab Tourism Organization, part of the Arab League. Rows of white armchairs for foreign dignitaries have been arranged in front of a large screen, floodlights blaze above, drones hum overhead, and later a band seated on stage will play Iraqi folk songs.

"Thanks to the sacrifices of its people, Iraq has reclaimed its rightful position as an influential nation, attracting tourists from around the world to experience its rich civilizations," Iraqi Prime Minister al-Sudani proclaimed as he received a large, symbolic key from dignitaries representing Oman, the 2024 title holder.

Moving away from oil

As with many other oil-producing nations in the region worried about the world moving away from fossil fuels, Iraq is keen to diversify national income and encourage more jobs in the private sector, rather than the oil industry or public sector.

Tourism — mostly the religious kind — already makes a direct contribution of around 3% to Iraq's gross domestic product (GDP). But the Iraqi government says it wants to grow that to 10% by focusing on other things Iraq has to offer.

It's not an implausible ambition. In countries like Egypt, Tunisia, Morocco and the United Arab Emirates, where tourism is already developed, the sector makes up between about 7% and 9% of national income.

And Iraq already gets between 6 and 10 million religious tourists every year — mostly from Iran and Turkey — because it is home to some of the most important Islamic shrines in the world. 

In the holy city of Karbala: According to research by Iraqi business consultancy Kapita, in 2019, only around 460,000 out of around 6 million tourists were in Iraq for culture or leisureImage: Hadi Mizban/AP/picture alliance

However, since the Iraqi government relaxed visa requirements for foreigners in 2021, offering a visa-on-demand for citizens from over 30 countries, that's been changing.

Exact numbers are hard to come by because of the different ways visitor numbers are collected in Iraq but last year tourism authorities said 400,000 internationals had come for cultural or leisure tourism.

Ambitious plans

"It's 100% possible," says Ali al-Makhzomy of Iraq's tourism ambitions. Al-Makhzomy is the founder and chairman of Bil Weekend, a local tour agency that works with both domestic and international tourists. "It could even cover 30% of the Iraqi budget," he enthuses, before adding, "with some conditions, of course."

There is no doubt Iraq has all the ingredients: This includes six UNESCO World Heritage sites, locals with an almost ridiculously generous attitude toward guests, natural attractions and archeological treasures dating back thousands of years. 

Western tour groups and travel influencers in Iraq have made international headlines because the country is often still perceived as dangerous to visit. But tourists from Arab countries could well have the biggest, immediate economic impact.

Although an official 2021 visit from Pope Francis made a difference in broader perceptions of Iraq, locals told DW that visitors from Arab countries didn't really start coming to Iraq for cultural tourism until a major football tournament was held in southern Basra in early 2023.

"The Gulf Cup in Basra was when Iraq really opened the door to Arab visitors," explains Diyar Talal, one of the founders of the not-for-profit Iraqi Traveler's Cafe, or ITC, a forum with around 100,000 members on social media. "And we started to see people from Gulf countries... Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Kuwait, you name it... coming here for tourism, not just religious reasons."

Domestic tourism also booming

Al-Makhzomy actually started his company in 2016 to cater to the domestic market after he noticed locals becoming more interested in their own history, although they didn't always know how to explore it. Not to mention that a lot of the historic sites in Iraq were often closed on the weekend, he adds with a laugh.

Now, al-Makhzomy estimates around 20,000 Iraqis visit places like the site of ancient Babylon every month.

"There are so many opportunities there," he suggests. "From culinary experiences related to the heritage sites to more drivers and tour guides. If you're a young guy living nearby and you start making souvenirs, you're going to do good business."

Opportunities are there because there are still so many gaps in the local market. While vendors on Baghdad's popular Muttannabi Street oversee tables loaded with fridge magnets, statuettes and Iraqi flags, there's not much to purchase at some of the most popular attractions. For example, at the Iraq National Museum in Baghdad, you'll see some of the most incredible antiquities in the world, including a 3,600-year-old sample of the world's first literature. But a dusty postcard in a neglected gift shop is the only thing to spend money on there.

Muttannabi Street was bombed in 2007 but has since been rebuilt and now attracts huge crowds every weekendImage: Cathrin Schaer/DW

As one local explained — off the record because they didn't want to jeopardize their job — that's the difference between government-run facilities like the museum where, they say, "people don't really care, they get paid anyway," and the private sector, where entrepreneurial locals run their own businesses.

Vision wanted

There are obviously other, bigger stumbling blocks for Iraqi tourism, too. Many Western countries still advise citizens against travelling there and although Gulf states' nationals were granted visa-free travel to attend football games in Basra, citizens of other Arab countries may find it harder to get into Iraq than most Europeans. Other issues include nearby conflicts — such as in Gaza — and climate change, which is making Iraqi summers increasingly unsuitable for travel.

Iraq lacks online booking services for accommodations, credit cards don't work everywhere, and public transport can be trickyImage: Anmar Khalil/AP/picture alliance

While some of those problems are intractable, there's a lot more that could be done, locals in the sector argue.

"I think our country needs to have a vision for tourism," the ITC's Talal argued. "Look at Saudi Arabia, they have Vision 2030 [which includes tourism objectives]. We don't have that and I don't think we can change without something like that."

"We need a real plan from the government and a lot of investment to move the industry forward," Bil Weekend's al-Makhzomy concluded. "Tourism is not just tour-guiding. It means hospitality as well — hotels, restaurants, everything. It's a whole industry and you need to be able to cover every step."

Edited by: Jon Shelton