Majdal Shams, home to the Druze, perches uneasily at the edge of war

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Israel-Syria-Majdal Shams-Photo Essay

A man in the Druze village of Majdal Shams, located near the Alpha Line, which separates the Israeli-occupied Golan Heights from Syria. [Matias Delacroix/AP Photo]

Published On 18 Dec 2024

High in the mountains of the Israeli-occupied Golan Heights, Majdal Shams is home to members of one of the Middle East’s most insular religious communities: the Druze.

With its roots in 10th century Ismailism, a branch of Shia Islam, the roughly one million-strong minority is spread across Syria, Lebanon, Israel and the Golan Heights.

Although Israeli citizenship is open for the Druze of the Golan Heights, most have opted not to take it as they navigate their Syrian Druze identity under Israeli occupation. Many families in Majdal Shams have relatives in Syria, kept apart by the Alpha Line, which separates the occupied Golan from Syria, and a buffer zone.

About 25,000 live in the Golan Heights, a rocky Syrian plateau, parts of which Israel occupied in the 1967 war and almost immediately started to build settlements on. These settlements are illegal under international law.

There are now about 25,000 Israeli settlers there, and the Israeli government recently announced plans to invest millions in doubling that number.

When Syrian President Bashar al-Assad was toppled a week and a half ago, people took to the streets in Majdal Shams to celebrate.

However, his ouster was taken as an opportunity by Israel, which has been heavily bombing Syria – claiming self-defence – and has launched incursions beyond the Alpha Line and into the United Nations-monitored buffer zone.

Evidence of the 1967 war remains in Majdal Shams with trenches and abandoned tanks. A security fence topped by coils of barbed wire now runs along the outskirts of town and across a field from the nearby Alpha Line.

Israel-Syria-Majdal Shams-Photo Essay

The town of Majdal Shams. [Matias Delacroix/AP Photo]

Israel-Syria-Majdal Shams-Photo Essay

An old Israeli tank on a hill near the Alpha Line. [Matias Delacroix/AP Photo]

Israel-Syria-Majdal Shams-Photo Essay

A woman and child walk past Israeli armored vehicles parked near the Alpha Line. [Matias Delacroix/AP Photo]

Israel-Syria-Majdal Shams-Photo Essay

People in Majdal Shams celebrate the fall of Bashar al-Assad with the red, yellow, blue, white and green Druze flag featuring as prominently as the green, white and black flag of the Syrian revolution. [Matias Delacroix/AP Photo]

Israel-Syria-Majdal Shams-Photo Essay

Young people sit on a dumpster as they watch an Israeli armoured vehicle manoeuvre near the Alpha Line. [Matias Delacroix/AP Photo]

Israel-Syria-Majdal Shams-Photo Essay

A cook prepares food in her restaurant in Majdal Shams. Although Israeli citizenship is open for the Druze of the Golan Heights, most have opted not to take it. [Matias Delacroix/AP Photo]

Israel-Syria-Majdal Shams-Photo Essay

A man fills up his tractor with fuel in the Druze village of Majdal Shams. [Matias Delacroix/AP Photo]

Israel-Syria-Majdal Shams-Photo Essay

People shop in a jewelry store in Majdal Shams, where some families are split apart by the Alpha Line. [Matias Delacroix/AP Photo]

Israel-Syria-Majdal Shams-Photo Essay

Only the United States recognises Israel’s control of the Golan Heights. The rest of the world agrees that it is occupied Syrian territory. [Matias Delacroix/AP Photo]

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