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Lingadbael homestay dining hall with its doorway decorated with an illustration of crawling ants, which are ground to make the traditional “saavli” chutney. Credit: Rina Mukheerji/IPSLINGADBAEL VILLAGE, Karnataka, India, Mar 10 (IPS) - The Siddi community, descendants of slaves from Africa, is now becoming more involved with mainstream enterprises, including a forest homestay venture—which is changing their fortunes after years of discrimination on the Indian subcontinent where they were originally enslaved.
In the 15th century, when the Portuguese arrived on the western coast of India, they brought with them several thousand slaves from the southeastern coast of Africa. These slaves, possibly hailing from African language-speaking tribes, were initially brought to the Portuguese colonies of Goa, Daman and Diu and were then sold to local Indian rulers at a profit.
Much later, around the early 19th century, once slavery was declared illegal, the slaves were released by the Portuguese. Some, as per local lore, also managed to escape the clutches of their cruel masters. But even when released, such was the fear of the barbarity they had been subjected to that they feared recapture. Hence, they fled into the forested tracts of the present-day Indian state of Karnataka, bordering Goa. Other African slaves settled down in the forested tracts of Gir, near Junagadh in Gujarat, after the Portuguese had sold them to nawabs in the western Indian state of Gujarat.
The Portuguese were not the first to introduce African slaves into India. The first African slaves were brought from Abyssinia (present-day Ethiopia) by the Turco-Afghan Muslim invaders in the 11th century when they conquered India. Hence, African slaves came to be called Habshi (from the Urdu term Habsh—meaning Abyssinia). Known to be excellent soldiers, some rose to become generals and petty officers—this gave rise to the term Siddi (African governor). Nevertheless, the majority of these slaves remained poor and exploited, looking forward to freedom.
Distinctly different in their looks, the Siddis of Karnataka continued to live in fear for centuries, despite escaping enslavement from their erstwhile Portuguese masters. Hence, they confined themselves to dwellings in the dense forests, living as hunter-gatherers. This was where they were 'discovered' by Gowdas (and revenue officials of the local rulers). Impressed by their physical strength, local officials employed Siddis as farm labor. The skills Siddis acquired in agriculture made them give up hunting and start farming small patches in the forest. But limited familiarity with the outside world and lack of literacy often saw them cheated of their wages or wrested off their farms by upper-caste landowners.
Siddi-run homestay at Lingadbael using mud-brick architecture. Credit: Rina Mukherji/IPSAlthough Indian independence brought government schools to nearly every village, Siddi children would often be forced out of schools due to racist slurs and ridicule. Socially, they were placed below the lowest untouchables in India’s caste hierarchy, resulting in the community shying from interaction. Things started looking up for the Siddis only after 2003, when they were given the status of a scheduled tribe, entitling them to several benefits, including quotas in education and employment. India’s 2006 Forest Rights Act, too, empowered them as a forest-dwelling tribe to gather and sell non-timber forest produce, such as honey, wax, and cane. During the monsoon months, when farm employment is lacking, the Department of Social Welfare gives every Siddi family dry food hampers.
Siddi Culture, Religious Beliefs and Skills
The Siddis have no memories of their original African homeland. However, they are talented musicians and dancers and have a great sense of rhythm. Gagged and bound and dumped into sailing vessels, the only object from their homeland that the Siddis carried along was the Dammami, which they continue to play to this day. The Dammami is a drum made out of a log of wood, covered with animal skin. Originally fashioned out of wood and the skin of wild animals, the Dammami is now made out of wood from the Nandi (Spathodea or African tulip tree) or Rumda (cluster fig tree), with one end covered with a patch of sheep skin and the other with goat skin. The Dammami is a necessary accompaniment to the songs sung at every Siddi feast.
Whichever part of India the Siddis settled in, they assimilated and adopted local customs and religious beliefs. Gujarat Siddis have adopted clothing styles prevalent in Gujarat, while the Siddis of Karnataka are dressed like the people of Karnataka. The Siddis of Junagadh in Gujarat, who used to serve Muslim rulers, are Muslim, while those in Karnataka are generally Hindus, with a few Christians and a smaller number of Muslims. However, all Siddis, irrespective of religion, revere Siddi Baba. The shrine of Siddi Baba, in Ankola, attracts Siddis from all parts of Karnataka during an annual feast dedicated to the deity. Worship of the deity is conducted by a mirashi, or priest, who follows rituals modeled on Hindu practices and is a local patriarch. Sanu Siddi, who works as a forest guard in Lindabael, for instance, is a mirashi, who is an expert in Siddi oral history, despite being unlettered.
Siddis in Karnataka use Siddi bhasha (Siddi language—a mix of the local Goan Konkani, Marathi, and Urdu, with a few Kannada words). The influence of Goan food and language is strongly evident in their cuisine, with a typical Siddi meal comprising rice, amti (a sweet-sour syrup using a local fruit), cocum and coconut-flavored curries, meat, bananas, and mango. Drinks like kashayam (a warm milk-based drink) and cocum sherbet, common to coastal Maharashtra and Goa, are part of Siddi cuisine and are indicative of Siddi history. Remnants of their erstwhile hunter-gatherer skills define the Siddis; they are skilled at gathering honey and wax and are good at beekeeping. Several species of plants and their leaves are used to make fritters, cooling drinks, and heal afflictions.
Siddi community that runs the Damami homestay. Credit: Damami.inIn the ‘80s, a nationwide talent hunt by the Sports Authority of India (SAI) in remote regions of the country picked up and nurtured some talents from the community and got them trained to represent India in athletics, given their naturally athletic strength and build.
Notwithstanding the community continuing to depend on farm labor, literacy levels have risen with government schools being set up all over Idagundi gram panchayat and Yellapur taluka—this has enabled some Siddis to progress into more remunerative professions, such as acting in movies, teaching, and business, notwithstanding the discrimination they face.
Homestay Venture: A New Beginning
Of late, the National Rural Livelihoods Mission (NRLM) has set up homestays in Lingadbael village, owned and managed by Siddi women through their Nisarga Sparsha Self-Help Group (SHG). The venture was long in the making, though, as NRLM District Officer Nagraj Kalmane revealed to me.
"We were working among the Siddis, organizing them into self-help groups, and preparing them for livelihoods over the last decade.” To start this venture, NRLM joined hands with Suyatri, a Bangalore-based social enterprise, and Nirmiti Kendra, a government organization, to build the homestay cottages.
The venture was named Damami, after the unique drum whose notes spell the last vestige and only link of the Siddis to their lost African homeland. Even so, persuading the Siddis to take the idea up was not easy.
“The Siddis feared that running this homestay would undermine their culture,” Uttara Kanara Zilla Parishad's Chief Executive Officer (CEO) Ishwar Prasad Kandoo tells IPS.
This meant interacting with the Siddi community using the offices of the Gram Panchayat (Village Self-Governing Body) and the local Siddi Member of the Legislative Assembly (MLA), meeting and reaching out to Siddis in the Gram Sabha (Village Council) for months, before the community saw the advantages of the project.
“Since they work at the grassroots level, Suyatri was particularly useful as a bridge between the administration and the community,” Kandoo tells me. But once they were convinced, things were easy. Manjunath Siddi, who now works as a local guide to visitors at the homestay, came forth to part with some family land for the cottages to be built on and was instrumental in getting other members of his community to collaborate in the venture.
To start with, the Siddis were trained in basic housekeeping, carpentry, and electrical work to maintain the homestays by Suyatri. “We took them to Wynad in Kerala, where we run a homestay with women from the local community. They were taught the basics of hygiene and how to serve food to visitors,” Sumesh Mangalassery of Suyatri tells IPS. Of course, some were more receptive than others. For instance, Hema Hari Siddi, who served in Bengaluru and Mumbai in restaurants, took to the training effortlessly, unlike many of her counterparts.
The homestays, which opened to the public in May 2024, use traditional mud-brick architecture that the Siddis specialize in and comprise spacious rooms with tiled roofs and modern amenities. The cottages were hand-illustrated with Siddi folklore by Siddi women using limestone chalk.
Jevan Mane (dining hall in Siddi Bhasha) has its doorway decorated with an illustration of crawling ants, which are ground to make the traditional “saavli” chutney, a sauce made of crushed ants, ginger, onions, and garlic.
“It protects us from colds and builds our immunity,” say Hema Hari Siddi and compatriot Savita Ravi Siddi. The women are happy earning Rs 600 (USD 6.89) per day at the homestay, which is around twice the amount they made as farm labor.
Being a forest village in the interior and off the highway, Lingadbael is an attractive retreat away from the bustle of city life. NRLM’s collaborative tie-up with the Forest Department to conduct hikes along forest trails and marketing through Suyatri has already ensured a warm response from research scholars and students keen to study the Siddi community.
But being tucked away from urban centers has its disadvantages too. For one, electricity is erratic, and there is no mobile network. Every time the electricity goes off, the Wi-Fi connection is gone too. Neither is there any reliable transport to Lingadbael. Hence, visitors must rely on private transport to and from Hubli or Yellapur towns.
“We are planning to explore using solar power for uninterrupted electricity,” Rajmane tells me. There are also plans to build a modest platform to serve as a stage for the Siddi music and dance performances visitors enjoy here.
The Zilla Parishad (District Administration) is already in talks with Karnataka Tourism to include Lingadbael homestay as part of a tourist circuit. Talks are also on with private players to obtain tourist vehicles under their Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) initiatives.
“We are in talks with forest officials and the Eco-tourism Development Board to promote Lingadbael as an ideal site for birdwatching and star-gazing, given its greenery, clear skies, and tranquil environs,” says Kandoo. Once the homestay catches on, the Zilla Parishad plans to open a Sanjeevani Mart counter wherein woodcraft, pickles, and handicrafts can be sold to visitors to help the Siddi community earn some additional income.
For a community that has remained in the margins for so long, the homestay venture in picturesque Lingadbael, with its gushing waterfalls and gurgling streams, holds the promise of opening up a window to the wider world.
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